The 5 best bathtub trip lever kits in 2026 — complete overflow assembly replacements reviewed. Artiwell, DANCO and Enhon — find the right kit for your tub.
Please note: Product availability and information are based on our research at time of writing and are subject to change. Always check Amazon for the latest details before purchasing.
A bathtub trip lever assembly is the mechanism that actually controls whether your drain opens or closes — it’s the chrome plate on the overflow hole near the top of the tub wall, the lever that you flip up and down, and the internal linkage rod and strainer that run down through the overflow pipe to physically block or release the drain at the bottom. When this assembly fails, the drain either won’t open at all, won’t close fully so the tub won’t hold water, or the lever feels loose and unresponsive. Replacing it involves removing the overflow faceplate, extracting the internal linkage through the overflow pipe, and dropping the strainer out from the drain opening — then reversing the process with the new components. This roundup covers five of the best trip lever kits available in 2026, from complete assemblies with linkage and strainer to plate-only replacements for when the internal mechanism is still functional.
It’s worth being clear about what distinguishes a trip lever job from other bathtub drain work. If you’re replacing just the visible stopper or basket at the drain opening — the piece you can see and touch at the tub floor — that’s covered in our roundup of the best bathtub drain stoppers, which covers standalone stopper mechanisms in detail. A trip lever replacement is a different scope: you’re servicing the complete overflow assembly, including the internal linkage that you can only access from behind the faceplate. The job is still well within DIY range for most homeowners and doesn’t require soldering or pipe work, but it does require pulling the linkage through the overflow pipe and confirming the new strainer seats correctly at the drain opening. If you’re also dealing with related bathroom work, our guides on replacing a bathtub faucet and caulking a bathtub cover the steps most commonly paired with a drain assembly replacement.
✏️ Our Take
A bathtub trip lever assembly fails in one of two ways, and knowing which one you have saves you from buying more than you need. If the lever itself feels loose, sticks, or won’t open the drain properly, but water still drains fine when it’s open, the internal linkage and strainer are usually still good — a plate-only replacement like the DANCO 80991 is all you need. If the drain won’t open or close consistently regardless of how the lever feels, or you can see corrosion on the linkage when you remove the plate, you need a complete kit with new linkage and strainer included.
IN THIS GUIDE
| Product | Rating | Best For | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Artiwell Matte Black Trip Lever Tub Trim Kit Set, No-Putty Installation BEST OVERALL |
★★★★☆ | Complete no-putty kit, matte black finish | $$ |
| Artiwell Tub Drain Linkage Assembly with Trip Lever and Strainer Cover, Chrome | ★★★★☆ | Full linkage assembly with strainer, chrome finish | $$ |
| DANCO Bath Tub Overflow Plate with Trip Lever, Chrome, 2 Inches (80991) | ★★★★☆ | Plate-only replacement when internal linkage is still functional | $ |
| Artiwell Trip Lever Tub Trim Kit Set, Brushed Nickel | ★★★★☆ | Complete trim kit, brushed nickel finish | $$ |
| Enhon Universal Bath Tub Drain Linkage Assembly with Trip Lever and Strainer Cover, Chrome | ★★★☆☆ | Budget-friendly universal linkage, chrome finish | $ |
🏆 Best Overall
The Artiwell Matte Black kit earns best overall on the strength of the no-putty installation design, a genuine practical improvement over traditional methods, combined with a genuinely complete component set. Traditional trip lever installation requires plumber’s putty under the overflow faceplate to create a watertight seal — the Artiwell’s gasket-based design eliminates that step, which simplifies the job significantly for anyone who has dealt with putty cleanup or worries about getting the seal consistent the first time. The kit includes the overflow faceplate, internal linkage, strainer, and matching screws in matte black — everything needed for a full assembly replacement with no supplemental hardware purchases required.
The matte black finish is a meaningful differentiator at a time when matte black bathroom hardware has become one of the most popular fixture choices in US residential renovation. Homeowners who have already transitioned their faucets, handles, or towel bars to matte black can match the drain assembly to their existing hardware without a separate finish search. The complete nature of the kit — overflow plate, linkage, strainer, and matching screws all in one package — means there are no secondary orders to complete the installation, which matters when your bathtub is out of service until the job is done.
✓ Pros
Complete one-box kit means no waiting on a second parts order while the tub is out of service
No-putty installation design simplifies the job significantly versus traditional putty-seal methods
Includes strainer and matching screws so nothing extra to buy separately
Matte black finish matches the modern fixture trend without a separate finish search
✗ Cons
No-putty design relies on the gasket fitting correctly the first time
Matte black limits color matching if your other bathroom hardware is a different finish
⭐ Top Pick
The Artiwell Chrome Linkage Assembly earns top pick because it includes the full internal mechanism — not just the visible faceplate and lever, but the complete linkage assembly and strainer cover that actually do the work of opening and closing the drain. This distinction matters more than it might seem. There are plenty of listings in this category that sell only the overflow faceplate, which is the visible chrome plate on the tub wall. If your linkage has corroded or the strainer is damaged, buying a faceplate-only product leaves the underlying failure in place. The Artiwell chrome kit replaces the complete working mechanism in a single purchase, which is what most trip lever failures actually require.
The chrome finish is the most practical choice for the broadest range of US bathrooms — it matches polished chrome faucets, towel bars, and shower fixtures better than any other finish, and it’s the standard specification for most US tubs from the builder-grade installations found in homes built between the 1960s and 2000s. The kit is designed for the standard trip lever waste and overflow drain configuration used in most US bathtubs, which is the style where a chrome plate sits over the overflow hole with a lever that pivots up and down rather than rotating. If you’re not certain which drain mechanism your tub uses, the buying guide section below covers how to identify trip lever vs tip-toe vs lift-and-turn before ordering.
✓ Pros
Full mechanism replacement rules out hidden linkage or strainer failure as the culprit
Includes the full internal linkage mechanism, not just the visible faceplate
Chrome finish matches the widest range of standard bathroom fixtures
Fits the standard trip lever waste and overflow configuration used in most US tubs
✗ Cons
Doesn’t include putty or sealant, which may need to be purchased separately depending on your installation
Chrome only — no alternate finish options on this specific listing
🎯 Best for Plate-Only Replacement
The DANCO 80991 occupies a specific and genuinely useful niche: it’s the right product when the internal linkage and strainer are still functional, and the only thing that needs replacing is the visible overflow plate and lever. This situation is more common than it might seem. Chrome plating on overflow faceplates can pit, flake, and corrode long before the underlying brass or zinc linkage mechanism develops functional problems — particularly in bathrooms with poor ventilation, where moisture exposure accelerates surface deterioration of the visible plate while the internal components remain unaffected. Buying a full kit in this scenario means paying for a strainer and linkage you don’t need. The DANCO 80991 at a lower single price is the correct specification. DANCO’s established reputation as one of the most recognized plumbing parts brands in the US makes this a dependable choice for homeowners who have confirmed their linkage is still working.
The 2-inch chrome plate is the standard faceplate dimension for the overwhelming majority of US bathtub overflow holes, which is why this unit covers such a wide range of installations. The critical pre-purchase step is removing your existing faceplate and inspecting the linkage before ordering — pull the two screws, lift the plate away, and look at the linkage rod that drops through the overflow pipe. If it moves freely, shows no significant corrosion at the adjustment connections, and the strainer at the drain opening lifts and drops cleanly when you manipulate the linkage by hand, the DANCO 80991 plate-only replacement is the right call. If the linkage is stiff, corroded at the adjustment nut, or the strainer doesn’t move cleanly, step up to one of the complete kits.
✓ Pros
2-inch chrome faceplate covers the standard dimension used on most US bathtub overflow holes
DANCO is a well-established and trusted plumbing parts brand
Ideal when only the visible plate and lever have failed and the internal linkage is still functional
Lower cost than a full kit when you don’t need the complete assembly
✗ Cons
Doesn’t include the internal linkage or strainer — confirm those components are still in good condition before buying this alone
Limited to the standard 2-inch faceplate size
💰 Best Value
The Artiwell Brushed Nickel trim kit earns best value for homeowners whose existing hardware is brushed nickel — a finish that has grown in popularity across US residential bathrooms over the past decade and now represents a significant share of faucet and fixture installations in mid-range and upper-mid-range new construction. Brushed nickel has one practical advantage over polished chrome in a bathtub environment: the satin surface texture hides water spots and fingerprints better than a mirror-polished chrome finish, which shows every droplet and smudge in direct light. In a bathroom that gets heavy daily use, that’s a real maintenance difference. The kit includes the overflow faceplate, linkage, strainer, and matching screws — a complete trim replacement with nothing left to source separately, at a price that reflects solid value for a full brushed nickel assembly.
This kit occupies a practical middle position in the market — a genuine finish alternative for households that have already standardized on brushed nickel elsewhere in the bathroom. The brushed nickel finish coordinates naturally with other popular fixture choices including oil-rubbed bronze, satin nickel, and warm white, making it a versatile choice for bathrooms that aren’t committed to a single finish type. If you’re replacing the trip lever assembly as part of a broader bathroom update that includes new faucets or fixture hardware, matching the drain assembly to the new hardware from the start saves a future replacement when you eventually tire of mismatched finishes.
✓ Pros
Brushed nickel now represents a significant share of new-construction fixture installations
Brushed nickel finish hides water spots and fingerprints better than polished chrome
Includes every component needed for a full trim replacement
Matching screws included to avoid a mismatched hardware look
✗ Cons
Brushed nickel costs slightly more than basic chrome alternatives
Complete kit means paying for components you may not need if only the lever itself failed
👷 Budget Pick
Universal Fit
The Enhon Universal earns its position as the budget pick by delivering the lowest price point for a complete linkage assembly — overflow plate, internal linkage, and strainer cover together — among the five kits in this roundup. For a homeowner who needs a functional replacement, isn’t concerned about finish specifics beyond standard chrome, and wants to keep the job cost down, this is the only complete kit in the roundup that hits the single-dollar price tier while still including all three components. The universal fit designation covers the majority of standard US trip lever waste and overflow drain configurations, which use a reasonably consistent geometry across decades of US tub production. The chrome finish matches the standard fixture specification found in most US bathrooms.
As the budget pick in this roundup, the Enhon is a newer entrant relative to the more established options above it, which is worth noting honestly. This doesn’t make it a poor choice, but it does mean spending a few extra minutes reading recent buyer feedback before ordering is a reasonable precaution, particularly if your tub is a less common make or model where universal fit claims are harder to verify against real-world installations.
✓ Pros
Genuinely the most affordable complete linkage assembly in this roundup
Universal fit design works across most standard US trip lever tub configurations
Includes both the trip lever and strainer cover components together
Chrome finish matches the majority of existing bathroom fixtures
✗ Cons
Newer to the market than the more established picks — worth reading recent reviews carefully before ordering
Fewer total reviews means less long-term track record than the more established options
How to Tell If You Need a Full Kit or Just a Plate Replacement
The most important pre-purchase question for a trip lever job is whether the internal linkage needs replacing alongside the faceplate, or whether the plate and lever are the only failed components. The answer determines whether you need to spend the money on a full kit or whether a plate-only product like the DANCO 80991 solves the problem at lower cost. The diagnostic step takes about five minutes and requires nothing beyond a Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the two screws securing the overflow faceplate and pull the plate and linkage assembly out through the overflow hole. Set the faceplate aside and look at the linkage rod. Run your hand along the rod and move it through its full range of travel — it should move smoothly with moderate resistance. Look at the adjustment nut where the rod threads into its connecting piece; this is the most common failure point for mineral buildup and corrosion. If the linkage moves freely, the adjustment nut threads look clean, and the strainer at the drain opening seats and lifts cleanly when you manipulate the rod by hand, the internal mechanism is still functional and a plate-only replacement is appropriate. If the linkage binds, grinds, or shows corrosion at the adjustment connection — or if the strainer doesn’t move consistently — you need a complete kit with new linkage and strainer included.
The trip lever kits in this roundup are designed specifically for trip lever waste and overflow drains — the type where a chrome plate sits on the tub wall above the waterline with a lever that pivots up and down (or in some configurations, side to side), and the drain opening itself has no visible moving part at the tub floor. If your tub uses a different drain mechanism, none of the kits in this roundup are the right product.
The two other common US bathtub drain mechanisms are tip-toe and lift-and-turn. A tip-toe drain has a small cap at the drain opening that you press down with your toe to open or close — there is no lever or plate on the overflow hole, just the functional cap at the drain. A lift-and-turn drain has a knob at the drain opening that you lift and rotate to engage a stopper. In both of these cases, the mechanism that controls drainage is entirely at the drain opening in the tub floor, not connected to an overflow plate on the wall. Both are covered more broadly in our roundup of the best bathtub drain stoppers, and if your tub uses one of those mechanisms, our guide on how to replace a bathtub drain stopper walks through swapping out a tip-toe or lift-and-turn stopper directly. If you’re not certain which type your tub uses, look at the overflow hole on the tub wall above the waterline: if there’s a plate with a lever, you have a trip lever drain. If there’s no plate or the plate has no movable lever, your drain is controlled by a different mechanism at the floor level.
Traditional trip lever overflow faceplate installation uses plumber’s putty under the plate to create a watertight seal between the faceplate flange and the tub wall surface around the overflow hole. Putty is applied as a rope of malleable compound that compresses into a seal as the mounting screws are tightened. It’s a reliable sealing method that has been used for decades, but it adds a step to the installation and requires cleanup of putty that squeezes out from under the plate edges when the screws are tightened. Putty can also leave a slight stain on some tub surfaces if left in contact for extended periods — less of a concern on porcelain-on-steel tubs than on acrylic or fiberglass surfaces where putty contact can leave an oil ring.
No-putty designs like the Artiwell Matte Black kit use a gasket — a pre-formed rubber or foam seal — behind the faceplate that compresses against the tub wall surface as the screws are tightened, creating a watertight seal without putty application. The installation step count is lower, and there’s no putty cleanup or risk of surface staining. The critical requirement with a gasket-sealed installation is that the gasket seats flat and evenly against the tub wall — the tub surface around the overflow hole needs to be clean and free of old putty residue before the new plate goes on. If the surface is uneven or the gasket isn’t properly aligned, the seal can fail at the gap rather than creating a consistent perimeter seal the way a properly applied putty ring does.
In hard water states like Arizona, Texas, Nevada and parts of California, mineral deposits build up on the internal linkage mechanism faster than in soft water regions, causing the lever to feel stiff or stick well before the visible faceplate shows any wear. Homeowners in these areas should expect to replace the full linkage assembly more often than just the faceplate, even if the plate itself still looks fine. The adjustment nut on the linkage rod — the most accessible point for mineral intrusion — can freeze in position from calcium and magnesium buildup, making the drain height non-adjustable and eventually preventing the strainer from seating fully in the closed position.
In soft water regions — the Pacific Northwest, New England, and parts of the Great Lakes area — the same linkage assembly can go a decade or more without functional degradation beyond normal surface wear on the faceplate. If you’re in a hard water area and have been using a water softener effectively, the softened water reduces this mineral accumulation significantly, and linkage wear progression will be closer to soft water rates. If you’re replacing a trip lever assembly in a hard water area and the linkage shows visible calcium deposits when you pull it out, cleaning the new linkage adjustment nut annually with a diluted white vinegar soak will extend the functional life of the replacement assembly.
Trip lever replacement is a manageable DIY job for most homeowners — no pipe cutting, no soldering, and the work is accessible through the overflow hole without opening any walls. However, if you remove the faceplate and find significant corrosion in the overflow pipe itself, damaged threads at the drain flange, or evidence of water damage behind the tub wall, a licensed plumber can assess whether the problem extends beyond what a simple assembly swap will fix.
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Look at the overflow hole on the tub wall — the oval or round hole positioned near the top of the tub, above the waterline, that prevents the tub from flooding if the drain is closed and water is left running. If there is a chrome or metal plate covering this hole with a lever or toggle that you flip up and down to open and close the drain, you have a trip lever drain. The drain opening in the tub floor itself will have no visible moving parts — just a fixed strainer or a strainer that moves when the lever is operated. If instead you have a knob or cap at the drain opening in the tub floor that you operate directly — by lifting and twisting, or by pressing down with your toe — you have a lift-and-turn or tip-toe mechanism instead, and the products in this roundup aren’t the right fit for that drain type.
Yes — if the internal linkage and strainer are still functional, replacing only the overflow faceplate and lever is the right approach and costs less than a full kit. The DANCO 80991 is the product for this scenario. The diagnostic step is to remove the existing faceplate, pull the linkage partially out of the overflow pipe, and check that the linkage rod moves freely through its full range of travel without binding. Check the adjustment nut for corrosion or calcium buildup — it should turn freely. If the linkage checks out and the strainer at the drain opening moves cleanly when you manipulate the linkage by hand, the internal mechanism is still serviceable and a plate-only replacement will resolve the problem. If the linkage shows binding, corrosion, or the strainer doesn’t move consistently, invest in a complete kit with new linkage and strainer included.
It depends on the kit. Traditional trip lever faceplates require plumber’s putty applied as a rope under the faceplate flange before installation — the putty compresses as the screws are tightened and creates the watertight seal between the plate and the tub wall around the overflow hole. No-putty designs like the Artiwell Matte Black kit use a pre-formed gasket behind the plate instead, which eliminates the putty application step. If your kit doesn’t specify no-putty installation and doesn’t include a gasket, assume putty is required. Plumber’s putty is inexpensive and available at any hardware store — it’s the kind of item that’s easy to grab while picking up the kit if you’re not certain you have it on hand. For acrylic or fiberglass tubs, check the putty label first: some formulations can stain synthetic tub surfaces, and a silicone-based alternative or a gasket-equipped kit is a safer choice.
The most common cause is linkage adjustment — the internal rod that connects the lever to the strainer has an adjustable connection that sets the strainer height, and if this is out of range, the strainer either won’t seat fully in the closed position (tub doesn’t hold water) or won’t lift far enough in the open position (slow drain). This adjustment is usually accessible by removing the faceplate and turning the adjustment nut on the linkage rod — threading it up or down changes the effective length of the linkage and shifts where the strainer sits in both positions. If the adjustment nut is frozen from mineral buildup, soaking it with white vinegar or a penetrating lubricant before attempting to turn it will usually free it. If the nut has corroded past the point of adjustment, or the linkage rod is visibly bent or damaged, a complete kit replacement is the straightforward fix. Persistent slow drainage with the lever in the open position, even after linkage adjustment, can also indicate hair or debris buildup on the strainer mechanism itself — removing the strainer and cleaning it before ordering a replacement kit is worth doing first.
For most US homeowners replacing a complete trip lever assembly, the Artiwell Matte Black No-Putty Kit is the best overall choice — the no-putty installation design simplifies the job versus traditional methods, and everything needed for the replacement is included in a single package. If your existing fixtures are chrome rather than matte black, the Artiwell Chrome Linkage Assembly delivers the same complete mechanism replacement at a chrome finish that matches the widest range of standard US bathroom hardware.
If you’ve inspected the linkage and confirmed it’s still functional — only the visible plate and lever have deteriorated — the DANCO 80991 is the correct call: a plate-only replacement from a well-established brand at a lower price than a full kit, appropriate specifically for the scenario where buying more than you need isn’t justified. For homeowners whose bathrooms use brushed nickel hardware throughout, the Artiwell Brushed Nickel Trim Kit is the best value for a complete finish-matched replacement — brushed nickel hides water spots better than polished chrome and coordinates with most other popular fixture finishes.
The Enhon Universal Linkage Assembly is the right choice if budget is the primary constraint and you’re willing to spend a few minutes reading recent reviews to confirm fit compatibility with your specific tub. The universal design covers most standard US configurations and includes the complete linkage and strainer cover at the lowest price in this roundup. Whichever kit you choose, the single most important pre-purchase step remains the same: remove the existing faceplate, check the linkage condition, and confirm whether you need a complete kit or only a plate before the order goes in.
✍️ About This Review
PTR Editorial Team — Product Reviews. We compare manufacturer specifications, installation requirements, compatibility and available product documentation to help homeowners choose suitable tools and parts. How we review →
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